LEISURE Food & Drink
Omelets reconsidered: Three variations from around the globe
“The perfect omelet can’t be rushed; it takes 30 minutes at least,” said the editors of Lucky Peach in All About Eggs (Clarkson Potter). But omelets are made the world over and in many, many ways, and the quick versions are as worthy of celebration as Daniel Boulud’s time-consuming omelette farcie.
The three simple but delicious examples below include a version created by 19thcentury French innkeeper Annette Poulard and another straight from the kitchen of a Queens, N.Y.–born Jewish grandmother. The first, a “deceptively complex” and wonderfully delicious variation, can be found “on every menu in Thailand.”
Neutral oil, for frying
1 tsp fresh lime juice
1 tsp fish sauce
Pinch of sugar
1 tsp chopped garlic chives
Pour an inch of oil in a wok and heat to 350. While the oil is heating, beat eggs in a bowl with lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and chives, until smooth.
Drizzle eggs into hot oil and leave to fry until the bottom of the omelet is set and crispy, about 3 minutes. Flip omelet and continue cooking until golden brown, 1 or 2 minutes.
Remove and let drain. Serve with jasmine rice. Makes 4 servings.
2 sheets unsalted Streit’s matzo, broken into 1- to 2-inch pieces
Salt and black pepper
2 to 4 tbsp butter
Soak the broken-up matzo in warm water (about 3 cups) until it gets kind of mushy, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a colander, squeeze as much liquid out of the matzo as you can without mashing up the natural flakes of the matzo. Transfer matzo to a clean bowl and crack eggs over it. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Mix ingredients with your hands until eggs are well blended.
Heat butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and fry the egg mixture until it’s browned and crispy on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook until brown and crispy on second side, about 2 minutes. Makes 2 servings.
¼ tsp salt
1 tbsp butter
Heat oven to 350. Crack eggs into a metal bowl. Using a whisk, beat eggs for a few seconds. Add salt and whip vigorously, about 3 minutes, until eggs form creamy, soft peaks. Over medium-high heat, warm a seasoned 8- or 9-inch carbon-steel pan until very hot, about 3 minutes. Continue beating eggs so they don’t lose volume. Add butter to pan, swirl to coat, and pour in whipped eggs. Let cook, undisturbed, for 1 minute. Transfer skillet to oven and bake for 2 minutes.
Remove and return to medium-high heat for about 1 minute, until bottom of omelet is browned and releases from pan. Use an offset spatula to slide the omelet halfway onto a large plate, then use pan’s edge to fold omelet over itself on plate, allowing soft, souffléed filling to ooze out. Makes 1 or 2 servings. ■